Only in the Outback

And we're back in Melbourne! - currently enjoying the comforts that can't be provided during a 2 month road trip living out of a $30 tent. But our triumphant return is definitely bittersweet, especially as we reflect on all the once-in-a-lifetime experiences we've had and the "man, this is a beautiful world" sights we've seen over the course of 60 days. And we certainly would be remiss not to do a massive post on the Australian Outback, one of the most singular and subtly interesting places in the world. Like the slightly crazy but always pleasant people who choose to live in that lonely expanse like to say: "You haven't been to Australia until you've been to the Outback!"

Outback sunrise (it's too hot to sleep much later than that)

MacDonnell Ranges

Literally hundreds of broken down cars dot the roadside - abandoning your vehicle must just be easier than calling for service?

Couldn't even if we wanted to! Don't think this waterhole has seen water in years.

This is considered a "town." It is, essentially, a gas station. But considering the nothingness that surrounds it, we don't blame them for calling it that.

Wycliffe Well is a town (read: caravan park) hundreds of km from anything else thus a place the weary traveler must stay. But! They refuse to rest on their laurels. So they have built a weird niche reputation for being the UFO capital of Australia!

           

The Devil's Marbles and a lonely dingo

King's Canyon 

Sunset over Uluru

Hiking around the base

Uluru gets all the fame but Kata-Tjuta is just as impressive

The Breakaways near Coober Pedy, with the claim to fame of being the apocalyptic 
setting of Mad Max

Riding off into the Outback sunset!

Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation

Our last days on the coast before heading into the sunburnt Australian outback were spent exploring the one-of-a-kind rainforest region of the Daintree and the beaches that border it. Saltwater crocodiles (and the inevitable horror stories about them you hear everywhere) kept us out of the water, but seeing the ocean reach right up to the rim of the rainforest was a unique experience and a perfect way to complete our journey up the eastern coast.

The Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation

Insane plant canopies found in the Daintree

Untouched Daintree

Our frequent friend, the bush turkey

Since crocodiles terrify people enough to stay out of potential saltwater
swimming spots, we followed the locals to this freshwater oasis (Adam is on the right)

On the Kurunda Scenic Railway, up into the Tablelands!

The Whitsunday Islands

We spent a week in paradise!

This nice man, John, talking to Adam is a perfect example of a chance encounter we made on the road and because of the Aussie friendliness we've come to know and love became a free boat ride (most boat rides in the Whitsundays start at $100 so this is pretty noteworthy) out to an amazing secret beach. Basically, we met John's family (including 3 of the cutest grandchildren in the world) while we were camping more than an hour away. His son, Steve, mentioned that his dad was camping for the weekend at the best (and most undiscovered) beach in the Whitsundays and gave us his dad's phone number. The next day we called and had a perfect afternoon under the sun getting to know an Airlie Beach local, talking about our mutual love of travel, and swimming in a cove that was all our own (see below).

Our beach for the day

View of the Whitsundays from Mount Rooper

Whitehaven Beach 

Hill Inlet lookout over the prettiest stretch of beach anywhere

Byron Bay to Brisbane, And Everything in Between

Sunset (and eerie, apocalyptic-looking shadow figures) north of Byron Bay

Amateur rock climbing required
for hiking up Mount Warning...

... with very rewarding views from the summit

Our stay on the Gold Coast was a particularly special one and must be commented on. Sometimes on the road, we meet impromptu guides and helpers who lend us a hand with difference-making recommendations, enthusiastically (it seems all Aussie's are both friendly and outgoing) take the time to converse with some disheveled-looking foreigners, or simply point us in the direction of a comfy campsite. On the Gold Coast, we were lucky enough to have two special such people take us in for the night (friends of the family so not so impromptu) to babysit two (very) weary travelers. Our new friends, Yvonne and Brian, met Kelly's Aunt Sue on a cruise years ago and with no other connection than this let us stay in their home, dine on a delicious home-cooked meal, and talk their ears off about New Zealand (their former home) and Australia well into the night. It was such a pleasant stop for us - some much needed comfort and hospitality.

Glass House Mountains

On the tip top of Mount Ngungun with epic Glass House Mounatin views

Inside The Wheel of Brisbane

Brisbane from one of its many bridges - we feel like this city kind of gets marginalized in comparison to Sydney and Melbourne but we had lots of fun here!  It's warm and pretty!

We went to the Eumundi Market after approx. 1,200 people told us we should -
and they were right!  What a good street fair.

Scenes from a typical end-of-day at the tent (i.e. home):

The Boomerang Coast

We have embraced the backpacker lifestyle just a little more intensely on these travels than in New Zealand (who knew we'd ever think of the camper van as luxurious?) - as we make our way up the eastern coast, campsites and pub accommodation (which is exactly as it sounds - you stay in a VERY basic room on the second story of a pub) have become our new home. While more challenging, it has also been a very liberating and personal way to experience the road. We know that this is an experience we may never have again, and one that is definitely changing our perspectives! More than ever we feel like true travelers.

The only real drawback - considerable lack of internet. Since we splurged last night and are staying at a holiday park, here is a photo dump of the last 10 amazing days of our trek.

The epically huge Grose Valley in the Blue Mountains - reminds you just how big the world is

Bouddi Coastal Hike

Behind waterfall in Dorrigo National Park

Pambula Beach

We visited the excellent Port Macquarie Koala Hospital

Barry has a severe curved spine but is tended to very well at the Koala Hospital

Not so cute huge scary lizard found on most campsites

Kangaroo and joey at Pebbly Beach

Perry's Lookdown in Blue Mountains National Park - a truly amazing view that doesn't nearly translate in pictures 

The Three Sisters from Echo Point, with a rainbow bonus

Wine tasting in the Hunter Valley

Sunset and pelicans north of Sydney

Sapphire Coast to the Blue Mountains

It has been an impressive week!

Jervis Bay

'The Three Sisters' and the massive Jamison Valley of Blue Mountains National Park

On the Road, Again! (no campervan this time)

After a much needed month and a half of staying put in Melbourne, we have set out on the road again - this time with just a tent to shelter us at the end of the day. Melbourne has been a comforting home away from home for us, thanks in large part to the hospitality of Adam's aunts. It's a place that will always feel familiar. But now it's time to experience the unfamiliar again, as we head up the eastern coast. The tentative plan, with welcome room for change, is to make our way as far north as Cape Tribulation, then head in to the outback for something truly unique, and ultimately come full circle in Adelaide and take the Great Ocean Road back to Melbourne.

Here we go!

Beautiful last day in Melbourne

Last night we stayed on Phillip Island, and this morning treated ourselves to some amazing views of cliffs and coastline on the Cape Woolamai hike, with pinnacles of red, red rock that plunge into the sea and green, green grass that clings to it.

Carlton vs. Essendon

Last night we went to our first "footy" game and picked the non-drug scandaled team to root for - go Carlton Blues! They lost. But it was a really close match (Essendon scored the winning goal with just 30 seconds left) and a really fun introduction to Australian rules football, which is very different than gridiron. It is honestly a bizarre hybrid of rugby, soccer, and basketball (they have to bounce the ball every 15 yards!). Given that there are 3 goals, we'd like to say there's even a little Quidditch in there.

Post-game hustle across the William Barak Bridge

In other adventure news, we just bought a car! It's a green Honda CRV that is manual (Kelly's driving lessons will commence upon return from the U.S.), fairly large, and perfect for off-roading and camping. A huge next chapter in the travel log is now staged to begin mid-September, as we attempt to see as much of Australia as we possibly can. Here we go!